The Complete Aquarium Guide - Fish, Plants And ...
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Why do we keep plants in our aquarium Apart from the obvious aesthetic benefits, live aquarium plants also improve the water quality in your tank. As well as using up the carbon dioxide (CO2) and ammonia (NH4) produced by your fish, they also use the nutrients needed for algae to grow, so they help reduce or even eliminate algal growth in your aquarium. They also provide cover to help keep your fish stress free and provide natural boundaries for territorial species, as well as cover for small fry.
An even bigger problem is that many fish shops stock a range of plants which are actually bog plants, not at all suited to life in an aquarium and which can die in a matter of weeks if submerged under water permanently. For more information, please see our guide to non-aquatic plants.
Try to avoid using incandescent light bulbs. Unfortunately some of the cheaper, branded aquaria come with these fitted as standard in order to keep costs down. They are of little to no use with many plant species as they simply do not emit the correct type of light needed by your plants. If possible, replace them with a fluorescent aquarium bulb. Your local fish shop where you purchased the tank from should be able to advise you on this. As fluorescent bulbs are cheaper to run than incandescent bulbs, you should save money in the long run.
If you have an aquarium heavily stocked with fish, consider using a liquid fertiliser that does not contain nitrogen or phosphor. These two nutrients will be present in fish waste and too much in the aquarium can and will result in undesirable algae growth.
What substrate is best for your aquarium is always the subject of much debate amongst aquarists. Large gravel is not suitable for Corydoras catfish for example as the sharp edges can damage their delicate barbels, so many Corydoras keepers look to use fine sand in order to prevent this. Therefore the aquarist needs to think about what fish species as well as what plants they want to keep before deciding on a substrate.
No guide on aquarium plants would be complete without the mention of carbon dioxide or CO2 for short. Plants need carbon like every living thing and receive theirs through carbon dioxide. Some people believe that it is necessary to add CO2 to the aquarium for good plant growth. Whilst this may be true in aquariums containing a large number of aquarium plants where competition for CO2 is high, or where the aquarium has high light levels resulting in the plants being unable to cope with the demands of photosynthesis due to the amount of light, it is not always the case in sparsely populated tanks with just a few plants.
Sadly, not all aquarium shops know this or they forget to tell all of their customers who purchase plants from them. Online companies may pack your order straight out of the box after receiving their shipment from the Far East so that the plants are still covered in these particularly lethal chemicals. When added into your aquarium without soaking or rinsing the fate of your shrimp is sealed.
Unfortunately some species of snail seem immune to the pesticides used before export to the UK. Therefore, before adding any plants to your aquarium, take a good look at them and check for both snails and snail eggs. Failure to do so can result in infestation and damage to your newly purchased and existing stock of aquarium plants.
A large and impressive species, amazon sword plants can form an attractive centrepiece in your aquarium or perhaps more commonly be used in the background of your tank. Growing quite large at between 25cm to 50cm in height, this readily available South American species does not require particularly high levels of light and is tolerant of a wide range of water conditions as long as extremes are avoided.
The large and attractive, light to emerald green pointed, lance like foliage make them a popular aquarium favourite. However in order to grow well, Amazon swords do require feeding. For best results provide a nutritious substrate or add root tab type plant fertiliser to your existing substrate. Liquid based plant fertilisers will not sustain amazon sword plants.
Spatterdocks are large and hardy plants suitable for larger aquariums, ideally at least 45cm deep. Sometimes called yellow pond lilies, this species naturally inhabits deep pools with still or very slow moving water. With care and attention they will produce a yellow lily flower. They are ideal for those with a larger tank looking for a large specimen plant, or those with fish that dig up smaller plants. They need a nutrient rich bottom and a reasonable amount of light to flourish, therefore the addition of root tabs will benefit them greatly.
Riccia is actually a floating species of plant, though in modern day aquascaping it is often tied down or trapped in wire mesh to form a carpet in the aquarium. It has been made popular by the late and great aquascaping legend Takashi Amano. If you have never heard of Mr Amano, google his name now to find some inspiration for your next aquarium set up. It is not the easiest of aquarium plants to keep and really requires CO2 injection to grow well and thrive.
While an aquarium lid may seem like an unnecessary expense, we highly recommend getting one because it minimizes heat loss and the amount of electricity the heater uses. A lid also decreases evaporation, which can cool the tank and cause swinging water parameters that stress your fish. Plus, a fish tank cover is a simple way to prevent fish, shrimp, and snails from accidentally jumping or climbing out of the aquarium.
An aquarium background is optional but nice to have since it hides the power cables and airline tubing from view. You can buy a background from the local pet store, spray the back panel of the tank with Plasti Dip rubber coating, or even tape posterboard to the aquarium. We personally like black backgrounds since the color seems to make plants stand out more and hides algae better.
For lighting, there are many, many options to choose from, so in general, we recommend that beginners go with a planted LED light because they are designed to provide the optimal spectrums and PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation) levels for growing aquarium plants. The Easy Plant LED is our personal favorite because of its solid performance and great value for low to high light plants, but for more information, read our article on how to pick the best planted aquarium light for your specific needs. A light timer is also extremely helpful for making sure your plants get a consistent amount of light every day and preventing algae growth.
You can design your aquarium using only live plants, but many people like to add hardscape, such as aquascaping rocks and driftwood that are safe for fish tanks. You can look online for inspiration or pick whatever looks good to you. Other useful planted tank supplies include:
This method is our favorite because it truly transforms your aquarium into a natural ecosystem, both biologically and visually. Rather than setting up a bare tank with very little to no fish, you can immediately add live aquarium plants and then focus on growing them with good lighting, substrate, and fertilizers. In fact, according to microbiologist Diana Walstad, aquatic plants consume nitrogen waste even more effectively than bacteria. All the more reason to go for a planted tank! (That said, the leaves and roots of the plants will contribute some beneficial bacteria, but you can add even more using the tips mentioned above.)
Once the plants (or algae) show new growth, the cycle is complete. Your plants are successfully consuming ammonia and nitrates and converting them into new leaves and roots. Gradually add a few fish, feed them sparingly, and use the water test kit to ensure that ammonia and nitrites are at 0 ppm and nitrates are below 40 ppm.
Aquarium water can be softened in a number of ways. If you've used testing strips to determine that your aquarium water needs softening, remove some of the tank's water and replace it with rainwater then test again, repeating until you have the softness you desire. You can also soften water by using a water softening pillow, which contains materials that filter out minerals. Alternately, add peat moss to your aquarium filter to help filter out the minerals.\"}},{\"@type\": \"Question\",\"name\": \"How do you clean an aquarium\",\"acceptedAnswer\": {\"@type\": \"Answer\",\"text\": \"Aquariums must be cleaned weekly in order to maintain the health and well-being of your fish. Important tasks include changing out the water, using your aquarium vacuum to clean the gravel, and giving decorative items a good rinse in the sink.\"}},{\"@type\": \"Question\",\"name\": \"When should you do the first water change for an aquarium\",\"acceptedAnswer\": {\"@type\": \"Answer\",\"text\": \"Once the tank is set up and before you stock it with fish, change 25 percent of the water weekly.\"}}]}]}] .icon-garden-review-1{fill:#b1dede}.icon-garden-review-2{fill:none;stroke:#01727a;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round} > buttonbuttonThe Spruce PetsNewslettersClose search formOpen search formSearch DogsGetting StartedDog BreedsDog HealthDog Nutrition & DietDog Behavior & Training See all CatsGetting StartedCat BreedsCat HealthCat Nutrition & DietCat Behavior & Training See all BirdsGetting StartedPet Bird SpeciesPet Bird HealthPet Bird Nutrition & DietPet Bird Behavior & TrainingPet Bird Supplies See all Small PetsExotic PetsRabbitsHamstersGuinea PigsHedgehogsPet Rats See all AquariumsAquarium Care & MaintenanceFreshwater Fish & AquariumsSaltwater Fish & Aquariums See all ReptilesPet SnakesGeckosAquatic TurtlesFrogs & ToadsTortoisesBearded Dragons See all HorsesGetting StartedHorse BreedsHorse HealthHorse Nutrition & DietHorse Behavior & TrainingHorse Stables & Equipment See all Best Pet ProductsCat ProductsDog ProductsPet Cleaning ProductsBooks & GiftsFish and AquariumSmall Pet and Reptile See all About UsEditorial PolicyProduct TestingDiversity & InclusionVeterinary Review Board See all Our free guide can help keep your tank clean and your fish healthy. Get it free when you sign up for the Spruce Pets!SubscribeAbout UsNewsletterContact UsEditorial GuidelinesFish & AquariumsFreshwater Fish & AquariumsFreshwater Aquarium BasicsComplete Aquarium Checklist for BeginnersByShirlie SharpeShirlie SharpeShirlie Sharpe is an aquatic expert and writer with over three decades of experience keeping and raising ornamental fish. She has consulted with The Minnesota Zoo and the National Aquarium. Shirlie has also authored a book on setting up aquariums.Learn more about The Spruce Pets'Editorial ProcessUpdated on 05/19/22Reviewed byNick Saint-Erne Reviewed byNick Saint-ErneDr. Nick Saint-Erne, DVM, is a highly accomplished veterinarian and writer who has treated zoo animals and exotic pets for more than 35 years. He has worked with the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention to improve pet store animal care among other endeavors. Dr. Saint-Erne is part of The Spruce Pets' veterinary review board.Learn more about The Spruce Pets'Veterinary Review Board Darya Bystritskaya / Getty Images 59ce067264
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